If you decide to do it, the conversion is easy. As shown here, the typical points system uses an inline resistor or resistance wire between the ignition switch and the coil (+) terminal to avoid burning out the points.
On mid '60's and up vehicles this is typically a 20 gauge
white/multistriped resistance wire installed between the
coil the firewall bulkhead connector. A full 12 volts only
during "crank" (start-up) is provided by a bypass wire running
between the starter solenoid "R" and coil (+) terminal.
This is typically a 20-gauge yellow wire. The separate coil also requires low-tension and high-tension hookups to the distributor.
In order to run properly, an HEI requires a full 12 volts at all times. The 20-gauge resistance wire must be replaced by a 12-gauge wire (pink to maintain the factory colour coding), hooked up to the HEI cap's "BAT" terminal. If you don't want the hassle of getting into the bulkhead connector, splice the new wire into the existing 12 gauge pink wires on the instrument-panel side of the firewall that run to the ignition terminal and/or fuse box. Discard or tape off the yellow bypass wire and low and high tension leads. If so equipped, connect the electric tach wire (20 gauge brown) to the "TACH" terminal.
The three wire connector from the HEI distributor plugs into the three wire inner receptacle on the HEI cap marked C-, GRND, and B+ (it's keyed to only go on one way.)
Car improvements don't get any easier than this.
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