This section contains links to discussions of important factors when considering ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies:
Yes, ice climbing is a winter sport. What does that mean in the Canadian Rockies ?
Be prepared for cold temperatures, -30 C is not uncommon. This means cold weather equipment plus and spare / warm clothes. Handwarmers / footwarmers / hot thermos can relieve the misery. Good gloves and a waterproof shell are vital as running water can be encountered at any time. Be aware of "cold injuries" such as hypothermia and frostbite and how to prevent them. On really cold days, look for (safe) climbs in the sun. And yes, a reliable vehicle is an asset.... nothing worse than staggering back to a frozen lump of metal 100's km from anywhere.
In the depths of winter the days are short. Take a headlamp, start early.
This
is the major hazard to ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies. Be aware of
the local situation. Many routes have an avalanche hazard, either on the
climb itself or the approach. Pay attention to recent avalanche activity,
recent snowfall, wind patterns, temperature patterns and effect of the
sun in the area. Consider learning how to use and then carry an avalanche
beacon. Climbers die almost every season in avalanches in the Rockies and
often it is due to being poorly informed.
Suggested annual reading "Avalanche Safety for Skiers and Climbers" by Tony Daffern, Rocky Mountain Books
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Key Indicators of Instability: Avalanche Bulletins rate risk of avalanches as High or Extreme.
Remember most Accidents happen because of: Setting out when hazard is known to be high. |
Be considerate of other climbers and other mountain users. They have just as much (or maybe more) right to be there than you do. If someone is ahead of your on a route, be polite. After all they took the trouble to get there earlier than you and deserve the respect. If they are "slow" and you are travelling faster and can SAFELY pass them, then ASK if they mind. Do not barge by then proceed to drop ice on them. Many "slow" parties will be glad to talk with more experienced climbers and will happily let them go by. But you should NEVER do anything that compromises another climbers safety. If you arrive at the parking lot or the base of a route, and it is busy, think about going elsewhere or be prepared to take your turn.
In terms of style, the most important factor is climbing safely. Remember if you get hurt, it will probably be another climber that comes to your aid. This means know your and your partners limits.
Consider your impact on the route you are climbing. If it is a "thin" or fragile route, and you are knocking chunks out of it (particularly in the early season) then give the climb a chance and retreat. Smashing a climb to pieces changes it's character and may even destroy it for other, maybe better, climbers !
The environment here in the Rockies is fragile. Be considerate of your actions. Here are some guidelines...
Use a trail if there is one. Do not wear crampons were they are not needed !
Leave only footprints. That means ALL litter goes home.
Take only photographs (and memories).
Nature's Call: Try to go at a proper facility in town or at a parking lot. If this is not possible, then ensure you get off the trail and into the trees, but away from any watercourses. Then your options are bagging it and taking it out or burying it. What about your paper ? Well, it is easy to seal it up carry it away in a zip lock bag, or at worst burn it. Always avoid locations that others will have to travel through. With increasing numbers of climbers this is a serious issue.
If you encounter an old cord on an anchor that you are not prepared to use, then place your own and remove and take away the old cord.
For a more complete discussion of the issues of grading ice climbs in the Canadian Rockies see the guidebook.
If you are visiting from outside the area, then be aware that grades may feel different from your "home" area.
The grades reported here are based on those in the guidebook which represent a particular route under it's "average" conditions. The grades given are a committment grade (I - VII), a technical grade (2 - 8) and a seriousness grade ( , R, X). For the seriousness grade, R = a thin / mixed route and X = a fragile route with danger of collapse. In each criteria, the "indicator" is from "low" to "high". Note that mixed routes are usually given both an ice grade and a rock grade (e.g. 5.9). For those who have never rock climbed here, rock protection is often either poor or non-existent.
Beyond this, we have attempted to put a range of grades for routes that potentially offer more than a single line.
As an example of what to expect of a route graded as III, 4 (eg.
Professor's)...
III = Low elevation, multipitch, moderate approach, requiring several hours
to complete the climb. Some objective hazard (avalanche ?), probably a
rappel descent.
4 = Sustained full pitch of off-vertical or 10-25m of vertical ice. Ice
may have technical features (chandeliers etc.) and may have long
runouts between resting places.
Most of this is personal choice, but other than the "obvious items" the following should be considered:
Down jacket, waterproof outer shell, waterproof gloves, spare gloves, warm hat, helmet, headlamp, knife, first aid kit.
Most ice climbers here prefer double ropes. This has 3 advantages. If you accidently cut the rope with either axe or crampons you have a back-up. If you have to rappel you can tie them together for longer rappels which means it will make for a quicker descent. And finally, you can share the work of carrying them in and out again !
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Also known as the "Abalakov" after its Russian
inventor. This is a very popular anchor for ice climbers in the Canadian
Rockies (since the ice here is typically very solid / strong) as it avoids
leaving expensive ice screws and is significantly safer than using
conduit. Despite its nature, it has been shown to be a very strong anchor
when properly constructed.
For articles on the Abalakov, see the guidebook or:
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There is a wide range of types of accommodation available to cater to all tastes from Winter campgrounds to The Banff Springs Hotel or The Chateau Lake Louise. Take a look in your wallet and decide ! The ACC clubhouse in Canmore is a popular base for visiting climbers and a way of meeting partners should you need one. The Youth Hostels along ther Icefileds Parkway, particularly Rampart Creek is also popular with climbers. We have tried to provide links to more information where possible.
There are international airports in Calgary, Edmonton and Vancouver. Calgary is the closest to most of the "Classsic Routes" described here. From Calgary either rent a vehicle or get a bus out to the mountains via the Trans Canada Highway. Depending on your budget and winter driving experience you might want to consider getting a 4x4. This will expand the scope of routes accessible to you and should reduce the chances of getting stuck .....
For information on local guides check out Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) homepage.