August 2008

Parking area: Whiskey Jack Hostel (Yoho Valley Road)

As all mountains in the Yoho area, Wapta has phenomenal views; arguably one of the best in the Book of Scrambles. However, the approach is long and the final ascent on the summit block is best described as a 5.4 climb rather than a scramble. Register comments such as "You call this a scramble?!" seem to echo this sentiment.

Seeing as parking at Whiskey Jack Hostel is strongly discouraged to put it mildly; park along the side of the road by the path to Takakkaw Falls. Walk to the hostel and follow the trail to Yoho Lake. Once at the lake campgrounds, follow the trail to Burgess Pass. The correct path is marked by friendly signage.

Once past the first rockband, a huge amphitheatre comes into view; backed by the seemingly impassable second rockband. Head towards the darker coloured rock to the right. Its actually easy scrambling through the second rockband along a series of giant ledges. 

Once past the second rockband, the summit block comes into view. Head to the summit block and then keep traversing right along the base. The path up isn't visible until you round the corner of the summit block. The ledge becomes increasingly narrow just before the Kane crux. Vern Dewit describes an alternate route which consists of traversing past the Kane crux; and accessing the final ridge from the right. However, the ledge becomes increasingly exposed and at least for the ascent, the Kane route seemed preferable. 

The Kane crux (see right) is more of a 5.4 climb than a scramble. The route is well delineated by a series of cairns with red flagging. I'm not certain whether these were placed out of altruism or simply to find the way back on the descent. While the crux was preferable to traversing the exposed ledges on the alternate route, the prospect of descending was not appealing. The rock quality deteriorates dramatically at the summit block and the biggest risk on descent consists of crumbling holds and falling rocks. 

As others have pointed out, bring a rope. There is no defense against being taken out by a falling rock. 

The final approach consists of an ascent along a steep and narrow ridge, which on its own might be considered a difficult scramble. However, after the mildly harrowing Kane crux, it seemed rather easy. The views up top are spectacular. 

The choice of descent is really a matter of picking the poison. Down climbing along the Kane crux is a bowel emptying experience in no large part due to the poor rock quality and the steady supply of spontaneously dislodging pebbles raining on your head. Alternatively, head down the ridge, past the crux, until reaching a small plateau. This allows access to the alternate route consisting of the traverse along a rather sketchy ledge which has the audacity to disappear intermittently. 

Half our group found the ledges far too exposed and favoured downclimbing; while the other half found the prospect of death by exposure more appealing than death by falling rocks. Enrique liked either option, but found it too stressful watching hyperventilating people; and decided to take the easy way out (see right)

Judging by the presence of other slings, we weren't the only ones who felt this way. Rappelling (30m rope sufficed) off the plateau bypasses the Kane crux and essentially returns you to the base of the summit block.